Issue 42 Jan 2022

Newsletter January 2022

Newsletter No. 42

Ipswich Waterfront – the ‘Jewel in the crown’ of Ipswich and how it could have been very different!

Ipswich Waterfront is described as the ‘Jewel in the crown’ of Ipswich on many websites, including those of the Government, NHS and local businesses, tourism, entertainment and parking sites, amongst others - but it could easily have been very different if a possible scheme by the Ipswich Dock Commission in 1971 had gone ahead.

Back in the late 1960’s and early 1970’s developments at the port reflected the changing patterns of Britain’s trade. Facilities were provided to serve ships handling unitised cargo on short-sea routes. In the Wet Dock the Ro-Ro berth on Orwell Quay was established in late 1960’s with a regular service to the continent. The ships were however limited in size and timing by the lock which in turn restricted the volume of trade possible. The port expanded with the establishment of West Bank area off Wherstead Road in 1971 and there was an inevitable decline in shipping in the Wet Dock due to increased ship sizes, containerisation, and reduction in industry around the dock. The number of ships visiting no longer required the expanse of the existing dock.

There was also a problem facing the Ipswich Dock Commission who operated the port on behalf of the people of Ipswich. The quay walls, and in particular those at the north end of the dock, were deteriorating and would be in need of future expensive repair work.

Alternative schemes were proposed which alleviated both this problem and the underused water and gained potentially more useful land space – these involved partially filling in the Wet Dock, as shown in one of the proposed schemes below (see overleaf for the layout as in 1971).

Interestingly this proposal also shows an additional locked basin area with capacity for larger ships than the Wet Dock. There was also a possible road and rail link to the expanded Island site from New Cut West.

One of the schemes proposed by Ipswich Dock Commission in 1971

Plan of the Wet Dock as drawn in 1971 and as exists now, with only minor changes.

Collapse of quay walls

If you have walked along the northern waterfront from Dance East to the area just before Isaacs, you may have noticed that short lengths of the quayside have occasionally been barricaded off whilst works were being undertaken. The most recent example of this was in over the winter of 20/21 when the wall opposite Ashtons Legal and beside the Mariners restaurant was being repaired.

The walls are constructed of layers of brick seated on foundations

secured by wooden stakes, as shown in the sketch. The wooden

stakes are apparently in remarkedly good condition, but the

problem arises from water getting behind the bricks and washing

away the mortar. This allows water through the wall into the

backfill which then is gradually eroded away and would lead to the

collapse of the quay surface.

The owners of the buildings on the dock are responsible for the

maintenance of the quay surface and wall immediately of front of

their buildings. However, before their highway function was

transferred to Suffolk County Council, Ipswich Borough Council

negotiated leases with the landowners to take to responsibility for

the quay surface. This enabled the re-paving of the waterfront to a common standard and style throughout its length and greatly improving the area. The quay walls remain the responsibility of the landowners, some of whom have seen multi-million pound costs for repair of the walls before their developments could go ahead.

The future:

How different the Waterfront now might be if the scheme had been implemented! But what of the future? The Island site will be redeveloped when the economic conditions are right. Will it be a mixture of housing, industry and education? Will it have leisure facilities for the people of Ipswich and attract visitors? Or will it be a closed off area where only a privileged few may visit? We do not know since all we currently have is the recently adopted Ipswich Local Plan which sets out a planning policy framework for the future of the dock’s development. IMT Committee is currently giving this document careful scrutiny with a view to publishing a paper of our own on the issue for public discussion.

We are indebted to ABP for providing access to the Ipswich Dock Commission archives for this information and many of the images of the dock construction in the Image Archive.

New Books

A Review of DRAGON by Rose Gan

Published by Monsoon Books 2021 ISBN 978-191204988-2

Paperback 391 pages £9.99

This is the first in a series of books based loosely on the real 18th century life of Francis Light, born illegitimate to an unknown mother and a local marquess who wants nothing to do with him. He grows up in Woodbridge and Melton, looked after by a local widow supported by a local squire. He goes to Seckford (Woodbridge) School, where he makes friends, but also enemies, always being made aware of his illegitimacy. He is attracted to the river life and wishes to join the Navy. His birth is a hamper to getting a berth as a midshipman, so he

joins as surgeon’s assistant. By an act of bravery he manages to get promotion, finally reaching the rank of a Lieutenant. Finding himself ashore without a ship and no prospects, he joins the Honourable East India Company and sails to India. He has some good fortune, brought about by his own kindness. Taking command of a country ship, trading throughout the Indian Coast and Malay Peninsula, he has a number of adventures and does well for himself as a trader, making important connections with local rulers and traders. As he becomes more independent of the Company an old enemy causes problems between himself and the HEIC but Francis Light prospers.

Written after much research, this tale has many real historical figures. There really was a Francis Light and indeed there is a Francis Light School in Penang, Malaysia today.

You need to read the full story. I will not spoil it. Read and enjoy.

Des Pawson

Round up of IMT activities in 2021

IMT members who receive our newsletter by email should also have received a ‘Latest News’ email on the 7th January giving a round-up of our activities in 2021. If you missed the email here is a link to the information is on our website Roundup 0f 2021 activities.

For our members who prefer to receive postal communications from us you will find a printed copy included with this newsletter.

At the end of 2021, 307 of our 351 members receive our communications by email. This is great for keeping our costs under control (2nd class postal rates have increased from 23p to 66p since the current membership fees were introduced) as well as minimising paper and printing costs.

If you are still receiving our postal communications and would like to change to email, please send an email to membership@ipswichmaritimetrust.org.uk and we can make the change. You can always change back again later if you wish.

IMT Window Museum Exhibition in memory of Ben Bendall

Peter Bendall “Ben” worked with the Ipswich Maritime Trust volunteer team on the first 20 Window Museum displays, he was a fine model maker. Indeed, his model of the barge ‘LADY JEAN’ named after his wife was an important part of our very first exhibition. He was working with us on our 20th display, right up until his final illness made it impossible for him to continue. In memory of all Ben contributed to Ipswich Maritime Trust exhibitions and displays we have curated an exhibition on the Maritime Models he created to better explain to the public in 3D a variety of maritime buildings and vessels.

On the 18th September the Window Museum exhibition ‘Maritime Models’ was opened with Ben’s wife and family in attendance to celebrate the hard work and time Ben provided as a Ipswich Maritime Trust Volunteer and Trustee.

The Display is planned to remain until the end of March.

The opening of the exhibition with volunteers, members of the Window Wizards and Jean Bendall

And now for something completely different……

We usually receive a few enquiries per month asking for help with information or photographs on people’s relatives or information of various vessels that have a connection to Ipswich. Where possible we like to help and often the research can lead down interesting paths….

One such enquiry came from a Mark Hewitt who was trying to find out about a Ship Letter Office that had existed in Key Street. In his possession was a sample of a postmark from the Post Office, as shown.

A ship letter delivery was established to the docks in 1860, and two years later a Receiving Office was opened at the Quay, with two deliveries daily for ships in the docks. In 1863 the office became a Money Order Office. From the Ipswich Journal 2nd February 1863.

The Ipswich Maritime Register of 1868 gives the following information which places the original location of the ShipLetter Office on the site of the current Premier Inn, almost opposite the Old Custom House.

Twenty Years later the Ship Letter Office was still in Key Street but under the care of Mr Mapperley, sub postmaster. Mr Mapperley became chief of the Telegraph Department at the Ipswich Post Office and was also the permanent secretary of the Golden Reapers Lodge of the Ipswich Oddfellows Society.

At one of the meetings he proposed a toast to ‘The Town and Trade of Ipswich’ of his pronouncements

I wonder what his thoughts would be today with the current air pollution problem in Key Street.

You may well ask what has this got to do with maritime history? Well other than the initial connection to the Ship letter office, not a lot! But therein lies the problem of having an enquiring mind, a puzzle posed and not having a SO to complain about the decorating not being done.

Fraser Yates

Future Events - Talks and Exhibitions

IMT 2022 Barge trips on Victor

Six more trips have been organised on Victor for 2022 – three are primarily sailing trips and three are ‘visit Historic Harwich trip with a tour led by volunteers from the Harwich Society. The dates are

Sailing on 26th May, 23rd June and 18th August

Historic Harwich on 9th June (rsvd for Ips Soc members), 21st July and 22nd September Details and booking information can be found on the flyer at the end of the newsletter.

Spring 2022 talks

We have three talks booked for this spring, starting on the first Wednesday of February. The talks will be held in the Waterfront Building of the University of Suffolk, unless Covid regulations enforce a change.

The talks lined up are -

Wednesday 2nd February at 7.30pm

The Excelsior story

by Jamie Campbell

Jamie Campbell, veteran Broads sailor and Trustee will talk about The Excelsior and The Excelsior Trust. The Trust was founded in 1982 specifically to complete Excelsior's rebuild which was duly completed and the boat re commissioned in 1988. Today, the Trust occupies an interesting position. On one hand, it maintains an important historic vessel and Excelsior is authentic. There's nothing that's been prettied, she's a commercial sailing vessel. A 19th century fisherman, were he to find himself on her deck today, would find all the controls where he'd expect them to be. Excelsior is the only large smack in the country still equipped with a traditional beam trawl. The Trusts other function is operating Excelsior as a sail training vessel. Since re commissioning, she has taken more than ten thousand, often disadvantaged young people to sea and sailed to all stations between St. Petersburg and Corunna.

Sail training changes lives and we find the local social heritage helps a little. Managing the Excelsior Trust has often been described as an act against economic gravity.

Wednesday 2nd March at 7.30pm

Sea Change and Blue Mermaid

by Richard Titchener

Sea Change Sailing Trust was set up by Richard and his partner Hilary in 2007.

It continues to develop its sail training work with young people. The New Barge Appeal saw the completion of Blue Mermaid in 2019, a replica of the last barges built in the 1930s. Richard's talk will cover the Trust and the new barge and will offer some thoughts on the future of our maritime heritage. Richard became hooked on sailing barges as a boy growing up in Brightlingsea, when there were still retired fishermen proudly wearing jerseys emblazoned with the names of the big pre-war class yachts. He became a sailing barge mate in his late thirties with Xylonite and is now noted as a very skilful skipper.

Wednesday 6th April at 8pm (approx.)

(after AGM at 7.30pm)

Platforms, Pirates and Pornography

by Andy Beharrell

What connects Screaming Lord Sutch, Gianni Versace, the actor Ralf

Little (Death in Paradise) and Doctor Who?

While this sounds like a question from Only Connect, the answer

actually lies in our local waters - the Maunsell Forts. These are a series

of army and navy forts which were built in the second world war

offshore in the North Sea to protect us from enemy air force and naval

incursions. These forts played a crucial role in early warning for air and

sea raids. Abandoned after the war their history was then varied and,

as you can see from the characters mentioned, at times unexpected.

Some were occupied by Pirate Radio stations while others were used as film locations. One even became a micronation. In this talk we will look at this unique history and the mixed cast of characters involved with these platforms. We will examine what is left of them and the unique legacy which they have left behind.

News from The River Gipping Trust

River Gipping Update

Over the last 18 months a footbridge over the river just above

Baylham has been rebuilt by Trust volunteers, replacing one that

was last seen at the bottom of the river in 1942. This bridge

formed part of the towing path and without it around 1km of

footpath alongside the river was lost. The Gipping Valley footpath

between Ipswich and Stowmarket is routed away from the river

along the railway line for around 1.5km, it is very narrow, often

overgrown in summer and waterlogged in winter. The new bridge

with permissive path will allow walkers to enjoy the river once

again at this location. The new path will start opposite the

Baylham Rare Breeds Farm, adjacent to Baylham Mill.

The river Gipping runs between Ipswich and Stowmarket. It was canalised in 1793 and was almost certainly John Rennie’s first ever completed canal project. Of the fifteen locks built over the 16 mile length all except one remain to some extent with water flowing through the lock chambers. None have lock gates.

In 1994 the Inland Waterways Association (IWA) started restoration work on Bosmere Lock, then Creeting lock between 1997 and 2004 moving on to Baylham lock which was completed by the then newly created River Gipping Trust a few years later. The Trust then went on to restore Pipps Ford Lock, which is very nearly complete, thus there are now four locks virtually fully restored ready for lock gates to be installed. These four locks form a group between Baylham and Needham Market, a stretch of waterway about 3 km long. The Trust are working on restoring navigation along this stretch and running a trip boat from Bosmere at Needham Lakes (a very popular visitor attraction) and Baylham which has a very popular Rare Breeds animal Farm. Lock gates at Creeting and Pipps Ford will be required to do this.

Just over a year ago the Trust have had two pre-feasibility studies completed for navigational restoration between Needham Lakes and Baylham. This has led the Trust to start planning to undertake an ecology Scoping study of this river section very soon with the hope that Biodiversity can be shown to be improved with the introduction of boats and a sustained water level depth. Without lock gates some parts of the river almost dry out completely during dry spells. With a successful scoping study the Trust will apply for grant funding for a full feasibility study, which will establish in detail all the implications involved in restoring navigation along this 3km stretch together with estimated costs.

The new footbridge mentioned lies between the planned navigation restoration stretch of the river between Bosmere Lock (Needham Lakes) and Baylham. The 1793 brick bridge abutments remained, but needed extensive restoration with around 500 reclaimed bricks recovered from the bottom of the river bed cleaned and reused. A new wooden platform deck was purchased in kit form and assembled by Trust volunteers. The deck consisted of five 10.5m long wooden beams, each 475mm high by 200mm wide weighing around ¾ ton each. Each beam was rolled across the river on a temporary scaffolding bridge.

The wooden platform and brick abutment restoration is now complete with the Trust working on an an ‘accessible for all’ path leading to and from it. It is scheduled to open to walkers this spring with a ceremonial official opening soon after.

Trust volunteers recently planted over 350 trees alongside the navigation, away from the river but close enough to hopefully give some shade from the sun in years to come. Over 700 trees have now been planted by Trust volunteers over the last two years.

The Trust organise a volunteer work party every Wednesday, normally attended by 12 to 18 volunteers. As well as working on the footbridge the Trust are looking to expand their towpath clearance work further upstream towards Stowmarket and further downstream towards Ipswich.

More on our website https://rivergippingtrust.org.uk

New volunteers and members always welcome from just £15 per year

Contact: sectretary@rivergippingtrust.org.uk

Ian Petchey, Volunteer restoration manager river Gipping Trust

Restoration@rivergippingtrust.org.uk

Past Events – talks

6th October

Flatford, Constable and the River Stour Navigation by John Morris

For our first talk in person for almost 18 months, John Morris travelled all the way from Gloucestershire to give a well-attended meeting an interesting talk on one of Suffolk’s most well-known artists and the world around Flatford, with plenty of images of the River Stour navigation. We saw many images of the barges and lighters that travelled up to Sudbury, as well as the lighter restored by the Pioneer Trust.

Our attention was drawn to the fact that locks on this navigation had lintels to keep the sides from caving in, yet at times Constable took artistic license in removing them if it made for a better composition. For the same reason Constable was also not above moving Dedham Church, so often seen in the background of many paintings. We learnt that the famous painting known today as The Hay Wain, but originally named Landscape Noon, actually illustrates a timber waggon know as a Drug in Suffolk. John pointed out that a touch of red appears in most paintings, something this reviewer approves of! We were encouraged to visit Flatford for ourselves and view the buildings, the river and the dry dock. He reminded us that Christchurch Mansion has perhaps the largest collection of Constable’s paintings and that we are lucky that it is right on our doorstep.

Des Pawson

Note – Until 24th April there is a special exhibition at Christchurch Mansion in Ipswich entitled ‘Creating Constable’ to celebrate the 200th anniversary of ‘The Hay Wain’. Information can be found at ipswich.cimuseums.org.uk

3rd November

Wemyss’ War, a British Admiral on land and sea

by John Johnson-Allen

The second of the Autumn talks was given by John Johnson-Allen on the very full life of Admiral Rosslyn ('Rosy') Wemyss, probably the least-known of the First World War naval leaders.

Rosy was a cadet at Dartmouth at the age of thirteen; whilst there, he became a friend of the later George V. He served on the Royal Yacht, but in 1903 was chosen to set up Osborne House on the Isle of Wight, a training college which opened the following year.

His next posting was as Captain on HMS Suffolk, based mainly in the Mediterranean. He was on holiday in Germany at the time of the build-up to war and was summoned back to a posting with the Twelfth Cruiser Squadron. Hostilities began on 12 August. Our ships were mostly elderly; no naval battle had been fought since Trafalgar.

The first war posting was to the Dardanelles, and then Gallipoli. Rosy had an acute eye for organisation and detail. At Gallipoli, he was able to first land and then evacuate 140,000 troops; in conditions of battle and sickness, not a single soldier was lost.

In December 1914 he was moved to the Red Sea to help support the Islamic people against Turkey, who had just joined the war on the side of Germany. This was a difficult campaign, but Rosy was fighting with the Likes of Allenby and T E Lawrence. They eventually succeeded, and Rosy was given the very highly prized gift of a piece of the Holy Carpet from Mecca.

Rosy was to have been C-in-C Mediterranean but within days of the appointment had instead gone first to Paris and then to London. He was then appointed Deputy First Sea Lord, an1st d then in December First Sea Lord. His main task seems to have been to instil a sense of teamwork into the Navy; this was not Beatty's strong point.

October 1918 saw Rosy and Foch representing the Allies in the Armistice negotiations, and there was later involvement in the Versailles Peace Conference. Rosy resigned his position on Beatty being made First Sea Lord but was ennobled and joined The Admiralty.

Rosy Wemyss died in 1932, aged 69. The funeral was at Westminster Abbey; he is buried in the Chapel Gardens, Wemyss.

Geoffrey Dyball

1st December

Red Sails on the Orwell

by Chris Turland

Chris Turland gave us the last of the Autumn talks. 'Red Sails on the Orwell'. This was the story of the Ipswich company, R and W Paul Ltd, the family, the company and their maritime activities.

The earliest record is of George Paul, who in the 1750s was a paint manufacturer in Ipswich. the business developed over the years in various directions, and by 1864 had acquired its first barge, the spritsail Julia Wood.

The major expansion came with the brothers Robert and William Paul, from the mid-1860s. They were maltsters, grain merchants and general traders. At its peak, their fleet ran to some twelve barges, a few sloops, and billy-boys for the Newcastle coal trade. The Pauls craft were seldom idle; some past their useful lives were used for grain storage in the Wet Dock.

In 1906, Pauls began operations at their (then) new maltings in Felaw Street. Just before then, following an argument with Orvis over repair costs, Pauls bought the Dock End shipyard from Shrubsall. The main work was the repair of their own craft, but they were also builders. The first barge they bult for themselves was Marjorie; she was in use until about 1960. The last barge, Jock, was built in 1912.

Pauls also invested in tugs. These were paddle steamers, used for bringing barges and lighters up to Ipswich and for the tourist trade. Pauls also volunteered the use of the tugs to take out lifeboats from Harwich to ships in distress. This had the happy consequence that, where salvage was involved, Pauls' tug was the first on the scene and so was able to claim.

By the 1930s the work of the barges had pretty much been taken by lorries. They played a part in the Dunkirk evacuation, but the end had come. Ena had been abandoned on the beach at Dunkirk, sailed back by sappers, stripped down in Kent, and now lies as a rotting hulk on the marshes. How lucky we are still to be able to appreciate and enjoy Victor.

Pauls Maltings have been converted into offices but with their external appearance intact. Their concrete silo at St Peter's Wharf could well be converted into office/work units.

Geoffrey Dyball

Social Media and Website Update

New MarComms Volunteers – Our blog posts and articles are usually researched and written by our MarComms Lead Andy. Due to commitments at his fulltime job, he was unable to keep up with the increased workload he had taken on during the original lockdowns. As such we had several people come forward to help with the digital side of Ipswich Maritime Trust, something we plan to continue developing.

Ang and Jon who you may see helping Wes on the Sailing Barge Victor stepped forward to help run our Facebook page and have done incredibly well, growing our supporter base, and updating us all on the views of the Wet Dock from their dockside apartment. We also welcomed a recent graduate from the University of Suffolk to join us, Olly a graphic design graduate was looking to develop his skills volunteering over the summer. His skills and enthusiasm were fantastic to see, and he has helped us develop our brand which we hope to develop and grow further. One day the blue and white colours of Ipswich Maritime Trust will be a bigger brand for the town than Ipswich Town Football Club. Okay maybe not, but we can dream.

We are always looking for new volunteers to help across the organisation, to help research and write new articles about Maritime Ipswich, support our social media and website, and help Ipswich Maritime Trust grow as we enter our 40th year. So do get in contact if you are interested. Feel free to explore the website and let us know your comments on our articles too as we are always looking to grow and develop the website. We are also exploring having an online shop, so if you had thoughts on this, or would like to get involved in its development and operation then please get in touch.

Andy Parker

IMT Membership news

IMT members

Our membership has reached a healthy 351 at the end of 2021 despite there was much less opportunity to reach out to new members.

To all our members who have renewed their membership by Standing Order or bank transfer this year, a big thank you for supporting us and our aims. If you normally renew your membership after a reminder from me, don’t worry this will be coming to you either by post or email after the first talk in February.

New Members

A warm welcome to members who joined us since July 2021

Bob Crawley Ken Nichols

Shane Hines Rodney Lay

Martin Waller Michael Smith

Paul Ridgway Ian & Karen Petchey

Will Durrant Jill Cooper

Andrew Waring Tim Hardy

Philip Ind Pauline Hemingway

Peter Randall & Robin Cousins Dave Hoy

Amelia Cousins Billy Wright

Chantal Ski & David Thompson

Fraser Yates

Two Rivers sailing trips

Visit Historic Harwich all day trips

Join IMT on a full day trip on the rivers Orwell and Stour

Thursday 9

th June 2022 at 9am (reserved for Ipswich Society)

Thursday 26

th May 2022 at 9am

Thursday 21st July 2022 at 9am

Thursday 23rd June 2022 at 9am

Thursday 18th August 2022 at 9am

A great chance to get the best views of the rivers

Orwell and Stour and to help with the sailing of an

iconic boat.

Victor was built in 1895 by Shrubsalls at Ipswich for

Owen Parry of Colchester, mainly for use in the

linseed oil trade. In 1947 she was the last sailing

barge to be decommissioned. She was restored in

1974 and beautifully maintained since.

Leave from her usual berth in front of the Old Custom House at 9am. - Mid-morning coffee, biscuits and bacon roll

- Two course lunch with wine, picnic style if Covid restrictions are in place. - Afternoon cream tea.

Return about 4.30pm-5pm, depending on wind and tide.

The cost is £65 per head.

Booking and Payment information:

Thursday 22nd September 2022 at 9am

Leaving from outside the Old Custom House, Ipswich at 9am and return about 4.30pm to 5pm, ‘Victor’ will motor/sail to Harwich Ha’penny pier with mid-morning coffee, biscuits and bacon roll on the way. After a 90 minute tour of Harwich with guides from the Harwich Society, we return to the Victor at 12.30 for drinks and a two course lunch with wine, picnic style if Covid restrictions are in place. Victor will then leave Harwich to sail/motor back to the Old Custom House with a tea on the way.

Victor was built in 1895 by Shrubsalls at Ipswich for Owen Parry of Colchester, mainly for use in the linseed oil trade. In 1947 she was the last sailing barge to be decommissioned. She was restored in 1974 and beautifully maintained since.

The cost is £65 per head, including a donation to the Harwich Society

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For all trips please book and pay-online at https://ipswichmaritimetrust.setmore.com

Booking questions, parking and special dietary requirements:

Limited parking available on the Island site by prior arrangement, courtesy of ABP.

For additional questions, a parking permit or for special dietary requirements please contact: John Warren at jbwarren5@gmail.com or on 07789 825 680